Sewing Diary: First Two Watson Bras

Adventures in Bra Making

Take 1: Sewing Notes

I wanted to use scraps of jersey fabric I had for my first bra. The pattern does not call for (only) jersey fabric to be used without modifications, which I kept in mind when picking a size.

Followed Handmade PhD’s blog post on making a pullover Watson to guide my band modifications. She took off 3/4″ from the band t account for the stretch in her fabric and lack of a hook and eye closure. I took off 3/4″ from the band, but because it was placed on fold, the total taken out was 1 1/4″. It fit in the end, but on my next one I will take a little less out.

Sizing

Omitted the hook and eye closure because I wanted to test fit without buying too many extra supplies.

Fabric and Notions:

References:


Take 2: Sewing Notes

  • Modified the inner cup seam to be straight following Cloth Habit’s tutorial for a scalloped neckline edge
  • Used scalloped edge of lace on cradle and band
  • Cradle lined in two layers of stretch mesh
  • Cups are one layer of lace rib fabric
  • Band is one layer lace and one layer stretch mesh
  • Bottom band elastic is stitched directly onto the stretch mesh and not turned so that the scalloped lace is shown on the bottom (See Lladybird Blue Lace Watson)
  • Cradle seams and side seams are enclosed
    • Stitched the lace cups to lace cradle
    • Basted two layers of stretch mesh together where the cups are sewn for cradle lining
    • Sandwiched lace cups between lace cradle layer and stretch mesh cradle lining and sewed together (See picture for how it looks clipped/pinned together)
    • Trimmed seams as needed with duckbilled scissors
    • Flipped cradle lining layer to the inside of the bra. Cradle seams should now be enclosed!
    • Topstitched cradle, making sure seam allowances are being pushed towards cradle, not cups
    • Sew band lining to cradle lining on both sides
    • Sew band lace to cradle lace on both sides
    • Trim seams and topstitch

Sizing

  • Made a larger size than my first bra (34A) because the lace is two-way stretch. To get the scallops where I wanted them, the stretch went vertical as opposed to horizontal.

Fabrics and Notions

  • Soft Bra Kit from Tailor Made Shop (no longer available)
    • Two-way stretch rib floral lace
    • Stretch mesh
    • 1/2″ strap elastic
    • 1/2″ rings and sliders
    • Clear elastic
    • 1/2” Band elastic
    • 3/8” Underarm elastic
    • 2×3 hook and eye

This was my first bra kit! It is convenient because you don’t need to source all of the different elastics required for a bra. The rib floral lace is beautiful and the stretch mesh is soft as well. The quality of the elastics was also very good. My only issue was I found the heat sealed part itchy on the hook side when the bra is not hooked on the tightest eye. I will also try to use power mesh instead of clear elastic along the neckline because I found it slightly irritating. (I think this was a tip from HandmadePhD?)

References:

I made a third one out of scrap swimsuit fabric but haven’t taken pictures of it yet! I also made some changes to a fourth (moved strap attachment towards the center) that is still in progress. Overall, a very comfy pattern that is perfect for scraps. Follow me on Instagram to see what I’m making in real time!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s